Sourdough

 

Thanks to everyone who made last night’s class interactive and fun.  It was good to see everyone again.  As we discussed, sourdough is an excellent way to add variety and flavor to an otherwise limited food supply.  Water, flour and a little time will give you leavening and the addition of a little more flour, water and salt will give you bread.  The heavy crust can be mitigated somewhat after cooking by generously rubbing butter on the top of each loaf. 

Remember to start with the pancakes and waffles.  They are a great way to get the hang of “pioneer” yeast and a delicious introduction to the concept of sourdough. 

As always, if there are any questions or if you’d like more sourdough starter just give me a call and I’ll hook you up.  J

Yeast 

 Yeast is the heart of bread making. It’s the essential ingredient that makes the dough rise and gives it that delicious taste and aroma. In each spoonful of yeast, there are thousands of living plant-like microorganisms. When activated by warm liquid, and fed by sugar or starch, these microorganisms cause fermentation which releases tiny bubbles of carbon dioxide gas into the mix. This gas is what makes the dough rise and achieve its light texture.  The process is called leavening.  Look at any slice of good, commercially produced bread and you’ll see hundreds of tiny holes where the bubbles formed in the gluten. 

Fermentation is facilitated by warm rising temperatures, 75 to 95 degrees F. (Think baby bath warm)  Be careful when setting up your liquids, yeast can be killed if the liquid is too hot and slowed considerably if it is too cool. Room temperature should be in the70 degrees range.  Cooler temperatures will cause your bread to rise more slowly and higher temperatures will cause it to rise quickly and must be watched more closely.    Set rising dough away from drafts or leaky windows.  If this can’t be avoided, cover your dough with a dishcloth to keep the breezes away.  If necessary, you should move your dough to another location in the house while it rises more readily.

 

4 types of yeast are commonly found in stores:  Active Dry, Cake, Instant or Quick Rising and Brewers.  Plus one more you can make yourself.

 

1.      Active dry yeast  --  has a dry, sandy texture, comes in small ¼ ounce packets  ( ¼ ounce = 1 ¼ tsp) or can be purchased more economically in larger bulk style packages at Costco or other big box stores.  Bulk packaging is considerably less expensive and once opened, stores well in an air tight container in the fridge.  Active dry yeast will rise at least 3 times before it begins to fade into inactivity.  It’s my favorite style of yeast because it has saved me more than once when I was distracted and forgot to check my dough.  I simply punch the dough down and allow it to rise again.  In an emergency when you can’t finish processing your dough, you can put it in the refrigerator with a tight lid.  The 40 degree temperature and the snug lid will stop the growth of the yeast and give you time to get back to it later. 

 

2.      Cake  --  also known as fresh active yeast is interchangeable with active dry yeast.  Cake yeast is moist, fresh yeast tightly compressed into small squares and foil wrapped.  To use, crumble the yeast into tepid water (75-85 degrees F) and use just like dry yeast.  One ounce of cake yeast will raise approximately 6 cups of flour.  Cake yeast is also good for double rise recipes.

 

3.      Instant  --  is a dry yeast sometimes called rapid or quick rise. You do not have to dissolve it in water first, but can combine it with other ingredients and bake using a one rise method.  It is often called for in bread machines that bake one loaf at a time.  This highly active product will cut rising time by 50%.   DO NOT use instant yeast for double rise recipes. It’s good for one shot and will not successfully rise a second time.

 

4.      Brewers  --  Brewer's yeast is used to brew beer, bake some breads, and can also be used as a nutritional supplement in an inactive form. While brewer's yeast can be used

 to bake some breads. Active and cake yeasts are used specifically because they create a sweet and considerably less bitter culture.

 

5.      Pioneer yeast, also known as sourdough, is another form of leavening.  Sourdough has been used around the globe for thousands of years.  A sourdough starter uses the naturally occurring bacteria, Lactobacillus, and yeasts naturally found on flour and in the air.  A starter is made by combining equal parts water and flour together then allowing the mixture to ferment enough to supply leavening for baking.  Depending on how the starter is cultivated, it can produce a leavening agent that varies in flavor from mild to strong and tangy.   

 

Pioneer Baking

 

In the days of our pioneer ancestors commercial yeast was non-existent.  Everyone from homemakers to cooks to California miners considered their sourdough starter a prize possession.  Personal histories of pioneer folks relate wonderful and sometimes hilarious stories about the care and safekeeping of their precious starter.  They kept it in crocks where it could grow rich and bubbly then carefully fed so it could be used every day.  It was carried across country, over hill and dale, and was often passed on from generation to generation.  Starter was sometimes referred to as “Everlasting Flour” meaning that however many times a scoop of starter was taken from the crock, the remaining yeast strains, when properly fed, would continue to ferment and grow for yet another round of baking for years to come.

 

Sourdough’s distinctive flavor comes from good bacteria that are present in raw milk, on flour or in the air and is enhanced with age and use.  There are strains with a decidedly sour flavor others are mild.  For daily use I like the milder strains.  For specific sourdough bread recipes I enjoy a little more zip to the taste.

 Pioneer yeast will not be found in stores but can be started from scratch at home, handed down from friends or family members or purchased on the internet from a commercial source.  My starter was given to me by a dear friend and is reputed to be over 100 years old. . . the starter, not Joyce.  It is mild and a delight to work with.

 Here are three professional sources with excellent reputations for quality products.  1. Sourdoughs International is a great site for different starter cultures from across the globe.   2.  Northwest Sourdough is a wonderfully informative site that will have you looking like a pro in no time.  3. Friends of Carl is a site with several sourdough starters originating from all over the map.  This site is run by a nonprofit group that asks only that you send a stamped, self-addressed envelope for return mailing.  That said, I recommend you send a small donation with your request for starter.  It helps them continue this generous offer.  While these three sites are all good sources for starters, they are by no means the only ones.  Search the web to get a good look at all the resources available out there. 

 

How to Make Your Own Sourdough Starter

Begin with a clean non-metallic bowl.  Metal will interfere with the ability of the starter to fully develop. Place one cup of warm water into 1 cup of flour (white or wheat) and stir, do not beat. You don’t want to work up the gluten.  Place mixture in a glass jar or non-metallic container with a lid.  Place the lid loosely over the top of the container to allow gas to escape.  Once thoroughly mixed it is ready to ferment.  Place the mixture in a warm place to ferment. The top of the refrigerator works for me because the temperature there is stable and consistently warm but not hot.

 Within 3-4 days, your new starter will begin to bubble and ferment. It will have a distinctive (but not unpleasant) yeast smell. That means the yeast is now awakened and working.  Your sourdough starter may develop a little earlier or later than the 3-4 day window.  Be patient.  Once the mixture bubbles and smells “yeasty” (kind of like a good brewery), it is ready to use. 

Once the starter is fully developed, keep it in the refrigerator unless you plan to use it every 3-4 days.

If you need to refresh your starter, simply discard half the mixture and add ½ cup warm water and ½ cup flour and gently mix.  Cover the container loosely and put it back into it’s warm place then refrigerate as above.  If water forms on the top of the starter don’t worry.  The starter under the water is still viable for use.  To mitigate the water, simply add enough flour to create the consistency you desire and allow time for the natural yeast to develop.

Each time you use your starter, replace the amount removed from the storage container. Refresh the starter as above or in the case of the pancakes and waffles, use ½ cup of your basic recipe mix before the eggs, sugar and salt are added. (See pancake recipe) 

For short term storage, if you’re not going to be using the sourdough within the week, keep  your starter in the refrigerator and continue to feed it as recommended above.  It’s always good to keep about 1 ½ cups of starter all the time so you’ll have some to use and enough left over to keep the culture growing and ready for use.

For long term storage, if you’re not going to use your starter for several weeks or more, put a snug lid on the container and store it in the freezer.  Sourdough starter is loaded with living organisms that will perish if not replenished or kept in stasis. Freezing holds the organisms in stasis – neither growing no dying away.    When you’re ready to use your starter again, simply leave it at room temperature for 24 hours after thawing.  Properly stored, your starter will remain healthy and vital for its next use whenever that may be.  However, if it seems weak after freezing simply replenish it as described above.

Drying a small amount of starter will also keep your private strain going.  Drop a spoonful onto a piece of waxed or parchment paper.  Spread it out (the thinner the better) and allow it to dry.  Once completely dry, save your dried starter in a zip–type plastic bag for future use.  It may take some coaxing to get it up to a usable size when you’re ready for it, but that’s better than losing it altogether. 

 

 

 

Baking with Pioneer Yeast

Sourdough is not as complicated as some would have you believe.  It’s really quite simple.  There are just a few things to keep in mind as you work with this particular kind of yeast. 

First you will need to acquire or create a starter.  (See above)

Next, sourdough baking takes a little planning; very little really.  It’s more about allowing the time for the sourdough to do its job than anything else.  Unlike commercial yeast, sourdough is slower to develop before it can be successfully used in a recipe.  You’ll see what I mean when you look through the recipes below.  Once you get the hang of it you’ll be quite comfortable with its slower timetable. 

Finally, you will need to feed your starter to keep it alive and thriving.  By following the methods described above you’ll do just fine. 

 Remember Pioneer skills will take some time to master so don’t be discouraged if these sourdough products aren’t absolutely perfect the first time you try them.  They’ll still be tasty and worth the practice time.  I recommend you try your hand at the pancake/waffles first.  They’re super simple and practically foolproof.  Better yet, the results are delicious!

 

Sourdough Pancakes

Makes approximately 30 dollar sized pancakes or approximately a dozen 6 inch pancakes

· ½ Cup starter

· 1 Cup undiluted evaporated milk

· 1 Cup warm water

· 1 ¾ to 1 Cups un-sifted flour (amount depends on desired thickness)

Combine starter, evaporated milk, water and flour in a large crock, glass or plastic bowl.  (NEVER use metal.  Metal will interfere with the development of the starter)  Leave starter mix on the counter overnight or until it becomes full of bubbles.

Once developed, this mixture is, in reality, a large bowl of starter.  Before proceeding remove 

 ½ Cup of the starter and return it to your basic starter container. 

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Preheat griddle to medium high

After removing the ½ C starter to the original container to replenish your supply, add the following:

· 2 eggs

· 2 Tablespoons sugar

· ½ teaspoon salt

· About 1 teaspoon soda

Mix well – do not beat (you don’t want work up the gluten)

· Grease griddle, pour dollops of batter on heated griddle, turn over when top of pancake is full of broken bubbles and has lost it’s glossy appearance.

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Crispy, Tender, Sourdough Waffles

Make the same as pancakes (above) except add 2 Tablespoons of salad oil before cooking.

Makes approximately 6 servings.

 

Pioneer Sourdough Bread

 

§  2-1/3 cups fresh sourdough starter

§  3-1/3 cup flour

§  1 to 1-1/2 cups water (approximate)

§  Scant tablespoon salt

Instructions: 

This recipe can be used to make a basic loaf of sandwich bread or artisan-style bread.

1.      Mix sourdough starter, flour and salt together.  Add water slowly to make sure your bread dough is moist and a little sticky.  As with regular bread, a moist dough is preferable to a dry dough.  In fact, the stickier the better.  Extra flour will make the bread dense and dry.

Knead dough until you can feel the elasticity of the gluten.  Use what some bakers call the “window pane test.” Pinch off a small piece of dough and stretch it out with your fingers until it is thin enough to let light pass through it.  If the stretched dough breaks before it can be stretched thin enough, keep kneading.

2.      Divide the dough into two pieces. Shape each half into a loaf or round balls.

3.      Place dough in separate pans or on a floured board. 

4.      Cover the dough lightly with a towel and allow it to rise for 4 to 24 hours.  (I raise mine at least 12 hours.)  If desired, you can raise the dough in the refrigerator.  It is reported that pioneers would put their dough in the ice house to rest and rise.  Our modern day refrigerators are probably colder with a more consistent temperature so when you take the dough out, let it rest on the counter at room temperature for a half hour or so.  Some claim that dough treated this way has a better texture and a more even flavor. 

5.      You can knead and reshape the loaves then leave them to rise a second time, but its not necessary.

6.       Slice a 1/4" deep X shape in the top of the loaf with a very sharp knife or razor blade.  This gives the loaf that artesian look.

7.      You can lightly spray tops of loaves with a mist of water before placing in over; then again about 10 minutes before removing loaves from the oven.  This trick is to create a crustier top but my experience is that this bread is plenty crusty without the water.

8.      Bake at 400°F for 30 to 40 minutes depending on your oven and the size of the loaves.  A foolproof way to check for doneness is to use a meat thermometer to see if the internal temperature has reaches 190° to 210°F.

9.      Remove pans from the oven, remove bread from the pans and place loaves on a cooling rack.  Allow the bread to cool before slicing.   

10.  Makes two standard size loaves.

 

Four keys to successful sourdough baking:

1.      Active Sourdough Starter:
Very active yeast and bacteria are critical for proper leavening of bread dough. If your sourdough starter has been stored in the refrigerator, it has been living in a dormant state. Plan to remove the starter from the refrigerator at least 12 to 24 hours in advance and feed it prior to baking.

 Feeding:  ½  cup sourdough starter - to ½  cup water -  to   ½  cup or so of flour 

The sourdough starter is ready for baking once it's been fed and rested at room temperature for as little as 4 hours but more likely up to 12 hours.   You can tell it’s ready when its bubbly and doubled in size. 

2.      Kneading:
Just like we discussed about regular bread making, working up the gluten is critical.  Properly worked gluten makes the different between beautiful bread-like texture and a cake-y, crumbly lump.   If you need to refresh you knowledge of gluten, refer back to the first of this book where gluten was discussed in depth. 

3.      Accept that sour dough baking is a process, not an event.
Sourdough is natural yeast and as such will take considerably longer to rise than dough made with commercial yeast. Timing for this method will depend on your specific starter, conditions within your home and the accuracy of your oven.   The good news, though, is that if you’re patient you really can’t fail no matter what your circumstances.  So relax.  Get to know your starter and make friends with your baking environment.  As a rule of thumb, the best rising time for your starter, will be 4 to 12 hours; for bigger batches to make more sourdough bread, plan on 12 to 24 hours.

 

4.      Keep it Simple: 

If you will use a large container for developing your starter, you’ll always have room to accommodate growth.  Healthy sourdough starter, once fed, will generally double in size and can easily spill out of a small container. 

Don’t worry If you see water forming on the top of your starter.  Feed it a little flour and it will be just fine.

Pioneer bread isn’t rocket science.  The recipe should be kept simple like the one above.  Real Pioneers used only starter, water, flour, and a little salt to enhance the flavor of their beautiful, aromatic and delicious bread.         

Sourdough doesn't need to be sour but if you want a tangier, sourer taste, feed your starter more often and do not refrigerate for 3 to 4 feeding.  Once the dough is worked up allow it to rise for 12 to 24 hours before baking. I recommend that you keep 2 starters - a mild starter in one container and a stronger flavored one in a separate container so you’ll always have the option to choose.

Using a thermometer to determine doneness (as described above) is the best advice for the beginner.  It’s very difficult to know when sourdough is done because of the variables of starter, different ovens with different temperatures, circumstance within the home, etc. Now add to that the variable time factors and even the experts have to do a little guessing.  Good news!  As you practice baking with your starter there will be much less guessing and more enjoyment in the process.  After all, it’s just starter, water, flour and salt.  How much easier can it get?

 

 

Bread Toppers

Here are some basic toppers you might like to try.  They’ll add variety and a little pizazz to your bread. 

Egg wash will give a shiny golden look to the crust as well as make a harder crust.  Beat together 1 egg or egg white and 1 tablespoon of water.  (egg yolk will give more color)  Apply just before baking or 5 minutes before removing from the oven.

 

Egg white seeded bread - Poppy, Caraway, sesame seed or rolled oats are eye catching, and tasty.  Poppy seeds produce a crunchy, nutty flavor.  Sesame seeds lend a rich toasted nut flavor.  Oats lend a richer texture and taste to the crust.  Just before baking, brush whisked egg whites onto the top of the bread and sprinkle with seeds of choice.  Bake as usual.

 

Butter -  To add flavor and a rich, soft, brown crust, remove freshly baked bread from oven and brush tops with softened butter.

Honey gives a soft, sweet, slightly stick brown crust.  Honey may be brushed on tops of loaves before or after baking.

Milk (warm) gives a slightly soft or tender crust with a golden color if brushed on before baking.  For a slightly sweeter glaze, dissolve a little honey into it.

 

Olive oil adds flavor and gives a golden crust with a slight shine.  Brush loaves just before and after baking.

 

Salted Water makes a light shine and crisp golden crust.  Great for French bread.  Mix 1 teaspoon salt and 3 tablespoons water.  Brush on just before placing loafs in over.

Corn starch makes a chewy crust with sheen.  Combine ½ cup cold water with 1 tablespoon cornstarch.  In a small saucepan, whisk together water and cornstarch.  Heat mixture to a gentle simmer.  Stir constantly until mixture thickens and becomes clear.  Cool.  Brush mixture onto loaf about 10 minutes before baking is complete and again 3 minutes before bread is finished baking.

 Slashing gives your loaves a professional look.  Just before baking, glaze the top of the loaf with your choice of topping.  Then with a very sharp knife, make a ¼ inch slit in the top of the bread.  (end to end lengthwise).  Drizzle a little melted butter into the slit and bake as usual.